No. 1—Is a walking-costume, for a young lady. The material may be of silk for the skirt, and woollen goods for the polonaise; or the entire costume may be made of any of the soft wool fabrics, light in color and texture, suitable for this month or later in the season: such as summer cashmere or camel’s-hair, nun’s-veiling, albatross cloth, etc. The skirt is kilted, and mounted on a silesia lining, which is faced on the outside, a quarter of a yard deep, with some of the material. As will be seen, the skirt nearly touches the ground. A trifle shorter is probably better for ordinary street-wear, and all skirts are made wider than last season. Two and a half yards wide now is the required fulness. When kilted, two and a quarter is sufficient. The polonaise is draped in front and on the hips with gathers; the back in irregular puffs. In our model, the points of the polonaise, the revers on the waist, and the cuffs, are all embroidered with silk, in a lighter or darker shade, to match the material. Any simple pattern in outline-stich, or filled in with Kensington-stitch, will make a very handsome trimming; and as so many ladies now do this kind of embroidery, there will be but little trouble in carrying out this design. For those, however, who cannot embroider, we would suggest braid, in straight rows, or in a pattern; or else a band of silk, cut on the bias, and put on as a fold, in place of the embroidery. Ten yards of double-fold material, sixteen to eighteen yards of single width will be required. An old silk skirt might be utilized for the underskirt, and a new polonaise of cashmere or other woollen goods.
No. 2—Is a house-costume, of pongee or foulard silk; or the plain and figured surah silks now fashionable may be used. If needed for ordinary house-wear, bunting, delain, or crape foulé, will make a pretty and inexpensive dress. The tablier consists of puffs and ruffles, with gathered headings. These are mounted upon a silesia or crinoline lining. Two narrow knife-plaitings finish the edge of the skirt all around. The tunic opens in front, over the tablier; and is looped in the back. The cuirass bodice is simply piped on the edge, and is finished in front with a bow and ends of two-inch wide satin or watered ribbon. A wide lace forms the cuffs; and is arranged around the neck and jaboted, down the front of the corsage. Nine yards of double-fold goods, or sixteen of single width.
No. 3—Is a walking-costume, of summer camel’s-hair, in light-brown, coachman’s drab, or gray. The tablier is covered with kilt-plaited ruffles. The tunic opens in front, and is draped quite full in the back. The edge is finished with galoon to match, or a very narrow knife-plaited ruffle. A plain round waist is worn with this skirt, for the house; and for the street, the jacket is added: which is perfectly plain, with turnover collar and tiny cuff, with knife-plaiting forming the upper half. The edge of the jacket is simply turned up, and the lining hemmed down upon it. Neatness and a good fit are the only requisites for making this a stylish outside jacket. Ten to eleven yards of double-width goods will be required.
No. 4—Is another walking-suit, in flannel or summer cloth, suitable for mountain or seaside wear. The skirt has, first, a narrow knife-plaited ruffle; over this is a deep box-plaited flounce, above which the tunic is draped and looped on the right side with a cord and tassels. A plain round waist is worn under the outside jacket. The jacket fits closely to the figure; is cut double-breasted; and is finished by three rows of machine stitching, or three rows of very narrow worsted braid. The shoulder cape is adjustable. It is finished to match, and lined with silk. A cord and tassel, smaller than the one on the skirt, ties the cape at the throat. To a slight figure, these little capes are very becoming; but a stout person should never venture upon one. In color, we would recommend navy-blue or brown, if intended for much service; otherwise, a very light gray or drab. Eight to ten yards of double-width goods.
No. 5—Is a costume of crape and cashmere, for heavy mourning. There is, first, a narrow knife-plaiting of the cashmere, then another knife-plaiting six inches deep. Over this the tablier is arranged, which is made entirely of crape; and is composed of five lengthwise panels, cut square at the ends: these are piped all around with the cashmere, and then put together and arranged upon the foundation skirt, as seen in the design. The back of the tunic is simply hemmed on the edge, and looped in irregular puffs. The basque is pointed back and front, and finished on the edge by a two-inch wide band of crape. The cuffs and the revers on the bodice are also of crape. Four yards of English crape, and eight yards of cashmere will be required.
No. 6—Is a pretty little costume, for a girl of six to eight years, made of plain and plaid cashmere. The kilted skirt is of the plaid, and is mounted on a petticoat body. The vest is plaited; the revers, cuffs, and sash, are all of the plaid material. The upper part of the costume is made of the plain cashmere, and is cut in the Princess shape; the skirt of which is cut in long points, and bound on the edge with a narrow silk braid. The model is so plain, it can be easily copied.
No. 7.—For a girl of seven years, we give a new model for an ulsterette, of tweed, fastened with gilt buttons. The cape is gauged to fit the neck; the edge of it, and the cuffs, pockets, and belt, are trimmed with braid. This will be found a very useful wrap for summer wear, in traveling; or for the street, on cool days in the spring or summer.
No. 8—Is a boy’s dress, of Scotch plaid tweed. Knickerbocker pants, with a paletot blouse overdress; which has a double front, to simulate an over-jacket. The back has a kilted skirt-front underneath the coat flaps.
No. 9—Is a sailor-suit, of flannel, white or blue, for a little boy of four to six years. It is worn over a linen skirt waist. Two or three rows of worsted braid finish the edge of the entire costume.
No. 10.—We give the front and back of a blouse apron, of blue zephyr cloth, braided with white or red braid, one or two rows put on above the hem. Suitable for an infant of three years.
