No. 1.—We give the front and back view of this new and stylish house-costume. It is made of cashmere and satin, or cashmere and velvet. Our model calls for cashmere and satin, in the new terra-cotta shade. The skirt is cut round ruffles are knife-plaited, in that case, the puff must be made separate, and put on with a fine piping to cover the seams. The pointed tunic is of the cashmere, and is trimmed with either fringe or lace. A scarf-drapery heads the tunic, and just to touch. It is made of the satin, and trimmed with a puff between two narrow ruffles, all cut in one, and on the bias. The upper or standing ruffle is tacked at short intervals to the skirt, to prevent it falling over. Sometimes the and is continued at the back, being arranged in a large puff, over the straight breadth of cashmere, which is slightly looped, as seen in the illustration of the back view. The long bodice of cashmere has looped basques, formed by a continuation of the back forms, left long enough to make the long double loops. These are lined with the satin. A band of satin edges the side-bodies, and is finished by a corresponding fringe or lace. Standing collar and pointed cuffs to the tight coat-sleeve. The bodice is buttoned with small ball-buttons. Fancy buttons are used entirely. Six yards of satin and eight yards of cashmere will be required. In making the satin skirt, cut the front-breadth and the side-gores the entire length. The two breadths in the back are only eighteen inches deep. These are faced upon a foundation-breadth of alpaca or silesia. The back-drapery is fastened to it, so as to entirely conceal the foundation If the combination is of velvet, instead of satin, allowance in quantity of material must be made, as velvet is much narrower.
No. 2—Is a half-mourning costume, to be made of cashmere, Henrietta-cloth, chudda, or any of the innumerable black woolen dress-goods, and trimmed with bands of crêpe or lustreless silk. The underskirt, which is of alpaca, has a deep kilting twelve inches deep. The tunic is composed of a double scarf-drapery across the front, which is cut open on the left side, and filled in with a plaited fan. A band of crêpe or silk, three inches wide, edges this double tunic. The back consists of a single width of the cashmere, and is arranged in irregular puffs. The long coat-shaped basque is suitable for either house or street, although many ladies have a plain round waist, worn with a belt or sash for house-wear, and the jacket cut large enough to be worn over it. This is probably the best way to arrange for a street-costume. In this case, the round waist will have the front trimmed with plaited crêpe or silk, to supply the vest seen in the illustration. If only the deep basque is made, this vest must be arranged to fit in under the rolling collar of the basque. Tight coatsleeves, with a plaited ruffle and band of crêpe heading it, finishes the sleeve at the hand. The basque is buttoned from the end of the collar to the waist-line by small ball-buttons of jet. Ten to twelve yards of double-width goods will be required for this costume, one and a half yards of crêpe or silk cut on the bias. For those who prefer it, the kilted flounce, the fans, vest, cuffs, and bands for the tunic, may all be of silk, while all the rest of the costume is of cashmere. Of course, more silk and less cashmere will be required for this arrangement.
No. 3—Is an evening-dress, of white cashmere or nun’s-veiling. The underskirt has first a knife-plaited ruffle of crimson silk; over this are two flounces of Spanish lace, put on with a slight fullness. The tunic is arranged in front by being laid in deep plaits, beginning at the right side and being carried over to the left, raising the plaits higher on the left side. The back-breadth is looped to form irregular puffs. The edge of this tunic has first a row of lace, and over this knotted silk fringe, headed by a ruching of the crimson silk. The round waist is shirred around the neck to fit, and gathered at the waist, under a belt of ribbon. The sleeves are frilled in at the armhole and at the elbow, and divided again half way between the elbow and shoulder by several rows of shirring. At the elbow, the sleeve is finished by a fall of lace. Two rows of lace form the collarette. Crimson satin ribbons an inch and a half wide made into small butterfly bows for the sleeves, and in long loops and ends for the neck and waist. Eight to ten yards of double-width material, twelve to fourteen yards of Spanish lace. The fringe is optional. It may readily be dispensed with, without destroying the effect of the costume.
No. 4—Is a stylish outside wrap, of cloth, camel’s-hair, cashmere, or Siciliene silk. Our model is intended for a mourning-costume, and is of black cashmere and English crèpe; but it is equally well adapted for any colored cloth, camel’s-hair, velvet, or corduroy which, in dark colors, such as navy-blue, invisible-green, and dark-garnet, is going to be very much worn, especially by young girls. These corduroy wraps are trimmed with fur or plush, or entirely plain, being finished by several rows of stitching. This wrap is trimmed with a plaited ruffle of crèpe, headed by a rose quilling of the same, tacked together and laid flat, forming a rose quilling. The shape of the wrap is a closely fitting back, cut short, and sloping down to the square tab fronts, which close from the throat down. Square dolman sleeves. There are a few plaits laid in after the garment is completed to fit it into the waist in front. Almost any well-fitting dolman pattern will answer to cut this by, as the difference lies simply in the shaping of the skirt part below the waist-line. It is always safest, however, to cut the garment out of some old muslin, and fit it before cutting into the material.
No. 5—Is a costume for a boy of five to seven years. Knickerbocker pants, and a box-plaited blouse, buttoned on the right side, on the outside of the third box-plait. The back has likewise three box-plaits. The edge is turned up, and several rows of machine-stitching finish it. The same for the cuffs and collar. A belt of the same, passed through narrow bands on the side-seams, fastens in front with a steel buckle. A large linen collar, tied with a ribbon, or cravat passed under, completes this costume. Checked tweed, or fine lady’s-cloth, may be used for this garment.
No. 6.—For a girl of twelve to fourteen years, we give a stylish coat, made of checked tweed. As we show both the back and front in the illustration, there can be no difficulty in cutting the garment. The dolman sleeves are lined with silk, and bordered with revers, stitched on the edge by machine. Shoulder-cape and pockets finished in the same way. A turnover velvet collar finishes the neck of the coat. The shoulder-cape is adjustable. Large horn buttons down the front and on the sleeves.
No. 7.—For a little girl or boy of six to eight years, we give a model for a drab cloth pelisse, with collar, cuffs, and pockets of plush in a contrasting color: garnet, navy-blue, or seal-brown being the most popular contrasting colors for trimming children’s garments. Large fancy buttons are used. This garment, as seen by illustrations, buttons diagonally, otherwise it is a simple close-fitting casaque.
