The Russians call it the bad steppe, and Dante himself could not have conjured anything grimmer: no color, no motion, no life, only an immense gray silence stretching to the edge of the world. It was through this voiceless desolation that Hepworth Dixon and this author traveled in 1869, running aground on thirty-nine sand-banks, stumbling through pitch-black Cossack villages, and discovering that the warriors of the Don were exactly as wild as their ancestors.