Flappers & Fiction

Fruit ripened in transit is fruit robbed of its soul. The author of this piece knows it, and she will not let you forget it; she has opinions about peaches, strong ones, and about the farmer who strips his trees too soon and the city cook who accepts whatever arrives at her door. What follows is part household manual, part quiet manifesto, with a third canning method the author claims as entirely her own invention, evolved, she tells us, from her gastronomic consciousness.